France: Celebrating Kosher Traditions During the Holiday Season
This December, the challenge of sourcing kosher food during the holiday season in France becomes even more pronounced, as Hanukkah coincides with Christmas festivities. Yet, despite the hurdles, tradition and creativity thrive.
These days, France is taking on a feast for the senses: Christmas markets, glittering shop windows and tables laden with Christmas treats. For observant Jewish families, this season coincides with Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights, observed with its unique and vibrant culinary customs. Between crispy golden latkes and sweet sufganiyot (doughnuts), sourcing kosher food during the holiday season becomes a real challenge, heightened by the omnipresence of Christmas gastronomy.
Kosher items are typically available in prominent French cities such as Paris, Marseille, Nice, and Lyon, where supermarkets and specialty shops provide a range of products. Nonetheless, throughout the holiday season, locating particular Hanukkah necessities such as frying oil or ready-made sufganiyot can seem like a quest for treasure.
“In December, supermarket shelves are overflowing with turkeys and Christmas yule logs, but for kosher doughnuts, you often have to place orders in advance or visit a specialized store,” explains Esther, a mother of three living in Beausoleil, close to Nice.
In small towns, even less kosher products are available. “Sometimes we have to drive an hour to find what we need for Hanukkah,” explains Nathan, a resident of Bollène.
To meet these specific demands, kosher caterers and restaurateurs play a crucial role. In Paris, the epicenter of Jewish life in France, some businesses ramp up production during Hanukkah. At a well-known kosher bakery in the 19th arrondissement, orders for sufganiyot skyrocket every December.
“Our customers love the classics, like jam-filled sufganiyot, but we also offer chocolate and caramel versions for those with a sweet tooth,” says Ariel, the shop’s manager.
Countless caterers are also celebrating the festive season by creating original menus, like Isaac from Marseille, who offers a Hanukkah menu in his kosher restaurant, with homemade latkes and inventive dishes to attract a varied crowd. For this chef, it’s an opportunity to combine tradition and creativity, while respecting the rules of kosher food.
The year-end festivities, characterized by heightened demand and logistical challenges, frequently pressure the kosher supply chain. “Our suppliers operate like non-kosher companies, which means that delivery delays may extend in December,” says Haim from Avignon (South of France).
Inflation, along with the increased expenses of kosher certification, poses an additional challenge. Numerous households need to modify their financial plans. Haim notes that quality doughnuts or frying oil may be twice as expensive as their non-kosher alternatives.
Despite these difficulties, the holiday period sees a growing interest in premium, locally produced kosher products. New entrepreneurs are capitalizing on this trend. In Strasbourg, a Jewish baker crafts latkes using locally sourced organic potatoes, while in Bordeaux, a family-run business produces kosher olive oil from their own olive groves. These initiatives attract consumers looking for a contemporary, sustainable method of kosher living. “People want products that align with both their religious values and ecological convictions,” says Sarah B, a French journalist.
In addition to the challenges, the season also offers a chance to share Jewish flavors with a broader audience. Certain restaurateurs utilize the holiday season to invite non-Jewish guests interested in Hanukkah dishes.
“Our latkes and sufganiyot are attractive and it’s a wonderful opportunity to promote our culinary heritage and foster cultural exchange” says Benjamin from Paris.
Despite logistical and financial obstacles, France’s Jewish community continues to keep the light of Hanukkah alive through its culinary traditions. The challenges of maintaining kosher during the holiday season underscore the importance of preserving a strong religious identity in a multicultural environment while proudly sharing a cuisine steeped in centuries of history and resilience.