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Houda Belabd

Paris: Rue Saint-Maur, a Palimpsest of Ashkenazi Resilience

Saint-Maur is a real locus of memory and resilience. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

At a time when paying tribute to the glorious pages of Paris’s Jewish history is a duty to remember, a look back at the history of rue Saint Maur is in order.

Rue Saint-Maur, stretching between the 10th and 11th arrondissements of Paris, is one of the main thoroughfares of the Republique district, marked by a big social and cultural history. This street has played a major role in the history of Jewish immigration to Paris, particularly at the beginning of the 20th century.

At that time, the street became a residential hub for many Ashkenazi Jews, especially Polish immigrants who had left their homes in Central and Eastern Europe to escape poverty and persecution. The history of this street is closely intertwined with successive waves of Jewish immigrants seeking refuge in France, and it remains a symbol of the integration of these communities into the working-class and popular Paris of the time. For this generation of Ashkenazi immigrants who wanted to maintain their individuality while blending in with French society, Rue Saint-Maur and the adjacent districts became a meeting place.

Ashkenazi Jewish immigration to Paris, particularly in République, Saint-Maur’s neighborhood, is often associated with the working class and tough living conditions. The majority of the neighborhood’s original occupants were men and women who had fled dangerous social and political circumstances in Poland, Russia, or Ukraine. Though in precarious conditions, there were jobs in the area’s manufacturers and workshops. A lot of Ashkenazi Jews fostered a strong sense of community among their fellow residents, even if they lived in poor homes and worked in difficult conditions.

The neighborhood’s abundance of synagogues, educational institutions, and cultural organizations was crucial to maintaining the Ashkenazi Jewish identity. Institutions like the synagogue on Rue de la Roquette or the Talmud Torah school on Rue Saint-Maur allowed immigrants to maintain their language, culture, and faith while gradually adopting the values of French society. These places also served as centers of resistance and support for the entire community in the face of the many challenges of the era, including discrimination and economic hardships.

With the industrialization of the neighborhood in the early 20th century, Rue Saint-Maur became a true site of memory for the Ashkenazi Jewish community. The street bears the imprint of these immigrants, who shaped the character of the neighborhood and contributed to the local economy’s dynamism. Shops and workshops multiplied, and the cultural landscape of the neighborhood also reflected their presence. However, over time, especially after World War II, the neighborhood underwent significant transformation, largely due to the gentrification process in Paris.

Although the Ashkenazi population in the area has gradually decreased, the memories of this time period are still present, especially in the form of family stories, memorial plaques, and testimonies from former residents. Rue Saint-Maur continues to represent the Ashkenazi Jewish migratory route in Paris, a testament to the harsh living conditions and the resilience and perseverance of this community.

The Legacy of Jewish Immigration in Paris

The street’s history as a Jewish immigrant is profoundly embedded in its identity, even if it is now part of a more diverse and cosmopolitan area. The memories of the Ashkenazi population and working-class Jewish immigrants remain vivid despite the area’s changes throughout time.

This legacy is brought to life by the few synagogues and shops that remain in the République neighborhood, as well as by celebrations and other cultural activities that pay tribute to Jewish immigration and its role in shaping the city. The integration and adaptation of immigrant communities to Parisian urban life are also reflected in the neighborhood’s transformations during the 20th century.

Saint-Maur Street has witnessed the tenacity and fortitude of Ashkenazi immigrants throughout its history, who helped the city flourish while maintaining their culture in spite of social and economic hardship. The neighborhood, which is currently undergoing significant change, is a place of memory that needs to be preserved as part of the many stories of Paris—a city of workers, a city of diversity, and a city shaped by a community that has been an integral part of the history of the French capital.

About the Author
Houda Belabd is a secular journalist advocating for coexistence. She has engaged in extensive debates about the importance of preserving the memory of the Righteous Among the Nations in France, voicing her strong opposition to the cancellation of Franco-Israeli twinnings. In her blog for The Times of Israel (written in French), she calls on the French authorities to take decisive action to honor the memory of those who risked their lives to save others, emphasizing that these twinnings should serve as symbols of unity rather than division.
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