Rabbi and Professor Emeritus
1781 The Travelogue of the Chida: A Window into the 18th Century Jewish World
JEWISH MOMENTS IN THE LAND OF ISRAEL
1781
The Travelogue of R. Chaim Yosef David Azulai:
A Window into the 18th Century Jewish World
The Ma’agal Tov of R. Chaim Yosef David Azulai represents a remarkable fusion of personal memoir, scholarly documentation, and historical chronicle. Through his detailed observations and candid reflections, he created a work that continues to enlighten readers about the complexities of Jewish life in the 18th century. His travels, undertaken primarily for communal service, produced a literary treasure that preserves yfor posterity the voices, struggles, and triumphs of Jewish communities across Europe and North Africa.
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Rabbi Chaim Yosef David Azulai (1724-1806), better known by his acronym “Chida,” stands as one of the most fascinating figures in Jewish history. Born in Jerusalem into a prominent Sephardic family, he became not only a prolific Torah scholar but also one of the most well-traveled rabbis of his times.
His extensive journeys as an emissary for the Jewish communities of Palestine produced one of the most important Jewish travel diaries of the 18th century: Ma’agal Tov [The Good Journey]. This remarkable travelogue provides an invaluable first-hand account of Jewish life across Europe and North Africa during a pivotal period in Jewish history.
The Chida’s travels were not undertaken solely for personal enrichment or scholarly curiosity. They served a vital communal purpose. In 1753, at the age of 29, he was selected by the Jewish community of Palestine to serve as their emissary to diaspora Jewish communities. His mission was twofold: to raise desperately needed funds for the impoverished Jewish institutions in the Holy Land and to strengthen connections between the Jews of Palestine and the diaspora communities.
The Chida embarked on two major fundraising expeditions that would span decades of his life. His first journey, from 1753 to 1757, took him through Italy, German lands, and London—a remarkable feat of travel in the 18th century. The second expedition, from 1772 to 1778, took him to Tunisia, Italy, France, and the Netherlands. According to some records, he may have undertaken a third journey in 1781. In total, Chida visited 148 cities during his first mission and 156 cities during his second, covering thousands of miles across continents.
Ma’agal Tov represents far more than a simple travel log. It is a rich tapestry of observations, experiences, and insights that illuminate Jewish life in the 18th century. The travelogue was compiled from small notebooks that the Chida carried with him during his journeys, writing entries that ranged from single sentences to several pages. The writing style is extraordinarily dense and allusive, featuring rhyming prose alternating with cascades of biblical and rabbinic references. The diary reveals Chida’s remarkable personality—simultaneously erudite and humble, curious and devout. Throughout his travels, he consistently attributed the honor he received to his role as a representative of the Holy Land rather than to his merits. His accounts create a narrative that is both uniquely engaging and profound.
One of the most valuable aspects of Ma’agal Tov is its detailed documentation of the diverse Jewish communi%ties the Chida encountered. His experiences challenged contemporary assumptions about Jewish unity and solidarity. Rather than finding universal bonds of trust and common ethnic identity among Jews, the Chida frequently encountered suspicion, cultural barriers, and theological differences. The travelogue reveals the complex dynamics between Sephardic and Ashkenazic communities. In a certain case, the Chida initially appeared to local rabbis as just “a beggar seeking to make a buck.” He was accepted only after demonstrating his profound learning through discussions of Ashkenazic halachic works. These encounters illustrate the cultural tensions and mutual misunderstandings that existed between different Jewish communities in the 18th century.
Beyond its Jewish content, Ma’agal Tov provides fascinating glimpses into 18th-century European society through the eyes of a learned Oriental Jew. The Chida recorded his wonder at European technological achievements, architectural marvels, and cultural institutions. His visit to the Tower of London, where he observed lions, a century-old eagle, and various exotic animals, exemplifies his curious and observant nature. The diary also documents the Chida’s encounters with European royalty and nobility. His meeting with King Louis XVI at Versailles, where the monarch was so impressed by the Chida’s stately appearance that he inquired which country’s ambassador this visitor represented, demonstrates the respect the Chida commanded even in the highest circles of European society.
A significant aspect of Chida’s travels was his systematic examination of Hebrew manuscripts and rare books in libraries across Europe. This was a serious research endeavor that would later inform his major bibliographical work, Shem HaGedolim [Names of the Sages]. The Chida visited printing presses, private collections, and major libraries, including the Royal Library in Paris, where he marveled at the extensive collection of Jewish books. His encounters with manuscripts often yielded important textual discoveries. In one instance, he examined a complete Talmud written on parchment with ancient script, noting numerous textual variants that differed from standard editions.
These scholarly pursuits demonstrate how Chida’s emissary missions served the dual purposes of fundraising for the community and advancing Jewish scholarship and the connection between the Jewish communities in Palestine and the Diaspora.