Exploring the Colorful Villages of Lake Atitlán: A Journey Through San Juan and Santiago with Rosa

@All Photo Credits: Noam Bedein

Nestled in the highlands of Guatemala, Lake Atitlán is a shimmering jewel surrounded by volcanic peaks and vibrant Indigenous villages. Each village around the lake has its own unique identity, preserved through centuries of tradition, struggle, and resilience. On a recent journey, I had the privilege of exploring most of the 10 villages surrounding the lake. Among them, I chose to share the stories of two of the most colorful, vibrant, and culturally rich gems—San Juan and Santiago—guided by Rosa Tzina, a local expert fluent in English, Spanish, and Tz’utujil, the Mayan language spoken in Santiago. Rosa, recommended by our home base in Santa Cruz, Casa Valdres, brought these villages to life with her deep knowledge and personal connection to the land and its people.

San José: Weaving Identity and the Legacy of Mayan Bees

Our adventure began in San José, a village known for its vibrant textiles and rich cultural heritage. As we stepped off the boat onto the colorful dock, we were greeted by murals and street art that told stories of the village’s history and traditions. Rosa led us to a local weaver, who explained the significance of the traditional outfits worn by the women of San Juan.

Each village around Lake Atitlán has distinct colors and patterns, a tradition dating back to the Spanish invasion. During the colonial period, the Spanish assigned specific colors to each village to control and identify the Indigenous population. However, the Maya turned this act of oppression into a symbol of pride, weaving intricate designs that told their stories and preserved their identity. The weaver explained that the outfits in San Juan feature the Mayan calendar and are predominantly red, symbolizing strength and resilience. The quality of these garments is extraordinary—some can last over 20 years, making them both practical and deeply meaningful.

From there, we visited a Mayan bee farm, where we learned about the fascinating world of native stingless bees. Rosa shared that there are over 30 species of Mayan bees, each producing unique and medicinal honey. Tragically, many of these species were wiped out during the Spanish invasion, as European bees were introduced and outcompeted the native populations. This loss was not just ecological but cultural, as the bees held spiritual significance for the Maya. Today, efforts are being made to preserve the remaining species, and the honey they produce is a testament to the resilience of both the bees and the people who care for them.

Our final stop in San Juan was a chocolate factory, where cacao is transformed into a variety of products, from cosmetics to alcoholic drinks. The factory is a model of sustainable production, using traditional methods to create high-quality chocolate bars that sell for around $9 each. As we sampled the rich, dark chocolate, Rosa explained how cacao has been a sacred crop for the Maya for thousands of years, used in rituals and as a form of currency.

Santiago: A Vibrant Market and the Spirit of Maximón

The next day, we set out for Santiago, a village known for its bustling market and spiritual traditions. As we approached the dock, the vibrant energy of the village was palpable. Rosa led us through the colorful streets to the temple of Maximón, a revered figure in Mayan spirituality. Maximón, often depicted as a wooden effigy, is a blend of Indigenous and Catholic traditions, symbolizing the complex history of the region.

From the temple, we made our way to the village cemetery, a striking sight with its brightly painted tombs overlooking the lake and framed by two towering volcanoes. Rosa explained that the tombs reflect the socioeconomic divides within the community—some are simple and unadorned, while others are elaborate and colorful. Despite these differences, the cemetery is a place of unity, where families gather to honor their ancestors.

As we descended to the lakeshore, we encountered women washing clothes in the lake, their laughter echoing across the water. Some brought their young daughters, passing down traditions that have endured for generations. In the background, small fishing boats dotted the lake, a reminder of the community’s connection to the water and its resources.

The highlight of our visit to Santiago was the vibrant market, where villagers from across Lake Atitlán come to sell their goods. The market is a cultural celebration, filled with the sights, sounds, and smells of Indigenous life. Women in traditional outfits bartered and chatted, their colorful huipiles (blouses) and cortes (skirts) creating a kaleidoscope of color. Rosa pointed out the 25-cent quetzal coin, which features the image of a Santiago woman, a symbol of the village’s enduring spirit.

The Heart of Atitlán: Rosa’s Guidance and Sustainable Tourism

Throughout our journey, Rosa’s expertise and passion brought the history and culture of San Juan and Santiago to life. Her ability to navigate between languages—English, Spanish, and Tz’utujil—allowed us to connect deeply with the people we met. As someone with a background in sustainable tourism, I was inspired by the ways these villages are preserving their traditions while embracing modern challenges.

Lake Atitlán is more than a destination; it is a living tapestry of history, culture, and resilience. Through the guidance of Rosa and the hospitality of the people, we experienced the heart of this magical region. As we returned to our home base in Santa Cruz, Casa Valdres, I reflected on the importance of cultural tourism that respects and uplifts local communities. In San Juan and Santiago, the past and present coexist in a vibrant celebration of life, reminding us of the power of tradition and the beauty of human connection.