Fear not, here’s your casual itinerary: Tel Aviv and Jerusalem edition

I returned to Israel at 21 after going for the first time at 19 to reconnect with a part of myself I thought I already understood, but also to embrace everything that brings me joy: the food, the people, the environment, and the rhythm of life

Cheers! You just booked your flight to Israel and are definitely going to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. Yalla! (Let’s go!)

Let’s assume you’re departing from any international American airport– JFK (what a drag if you’re from New Jersey), EWR (the best ever), LAX (also not too shabby), and you’re flying on the lovely El Al, which provide you with a complimentary care kit–even in economy–you’re already on the right track.

I’ll suppose that you want to explore Tel Aviv first, as it’s very close to Ben Gurion Airport. Depending on when you get here and who you were sitting with on the plane, you will either be begging for sleep, or you’re going to be loaded with energy to fuel you like a bear coming out of hibernation. I’m usually begging for sleep as I’m the type that takes one to two business days to acclimate to the time zone. So don’t feel bad if you’re like me.

You have three options–staying at a nice hotel like Hotel Metropolitan, booking an Airbnb by the Tayelet, or you’re toughing it out in a hostel. As someone who has done all three, forgo the hostel–unless you like to live life on the edge. 

Depending on how long your trip is going to be, three to four days is enough time in Tel Aviv. Past that you will have skin damage and have shekels that will amount to pennies. Although, in a utopian life, I’d stay there forever.

You can walk the beach promenade (Tayelet) during the day or at night for the beautiful sunset, grab shakshuka and a frozen coffee at either Aroma or get a somewhat equivalent New York/New Jersey bagel at Cafe Xoho. Another great option is Benedict, which has a mellow ambience. 

For beaches: The Dog Beach (to sight see all the cute dogs), Gordon Beach, and Jerusalem beach are all your friends. My suggestion, however, is never leave your bag unattended and have someone you trust guard your bag with their life–or else you will never see it again. Bring a bag you don’t care about, with non valuable items inside.  

For neighborhoods to hang out in, you have a few options–if you’re a hippy–Florentin is a vibe, if you’re a shopper, Dizengoff is where you’ll get your buyers remorse as you would in SoHo, and to top it off you’ll be in what I like to call, “mini Times Square”–which sounds like my biggest nightmare combination, but for some reason, in Israel it’s more enjoyable. 

Other great neighborhoods are Neve Tzedek, Sarona, and Jaffa. You can check out The Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel), a great place to get those touristy tchotchkes, get delicious rugelach, knafeh, and halva. Be sure to try and use your charm to negotiate those random trinkets at the markets, though.

If you’re in your 20s and want to have the most touristy dinner on the planet–La Mer is great. But seriously, it’s a great atmosphere, the food is alright but the sunset in the sandy seating makes up for it times a million.

I’ve also heard great things about Dizzy Frishon or “Dizzy’s,” which is a great wine bar on Dizengoff Street. Perhaps you can check it out and tell me all about it so it gives me a bonus reason to book my next flight to Israel.

For falafel, schnitzel, and shawarma, any place will suffice; however, if it’s still around, there’s a 8 Shekel falafel place on Dizengoff that’s chef’s kiss. For this sect of food, I’ll let you have some fun–as there are so many options that I don’t believe the one’s I’ve eaten at are any better than the one’s I haven’t tried.

Now that we’ve gotten Tel Aviv past us, sadly, we are on our way to the Tel Aviv Savidor train station which I find to be the safest station in Tel Aviv. Don’t make a rookie mistake and go to the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station. Just take my word for it. Get excited because you’re taking the train to Jerusalem’s Yitzhak Navon train station.

Your next chapter has begun, you’ve arrived in Jerusalem. The first time I arrived in Jerusalem, I was flabbergasted. I thought I was living in an alternate reality. The energy of Jerusalem is heavy because of the religious aspect of the city, but once you know your way around town and step into your spiritual energy, it’s one of the coolest places to be. 

When it comes to where you’re going to stay, a hotel or Airbnb, again will be a great option, but of course, do your due diligence. Depending on what you’re looking for, I’ve heard great things about the Waldorf Astoria, King David Hotel, but I have also been to an eerie hotel in Jerusalem–that I forgot the name of (rightfully so) and couldn’t find on the internet (which further proves my point.) Choose wisely, but with accommodations, Airbnb, a trusted hotel, or a seminary (in my case at one point when I was learning) will be perfect. 

I’ll suppose you’re probably hungry, but if you’re not, you will be. Maybe Italian food? “But, Julia, we are not in Italy, we are in Israel”. I understand. But first, can I just say that Italians and Jews are the same human, different font? Have you ever heard an Italian talk about how good their food was? And then have the same exact conversation with a Jewish person? The answer will be identical. Both Jews and Italians act like they’re Chopped chefs. Anyway, I digress. Pasta Basta has great pasta in Machane Yehuda Market (Shuk) because for me, pasta is just a warm hug. If you want fancy Italian food, Piccolino–in the heart of Jerusalem is also yummy.

I’ll always recommend Halati in the Shuk, where you can enjoy a schnitzel challah sandwich. When I found this place, I thought I hit a gold mine. It was a similar feeling to when I was accepted into college. At this point, Halati is tradition, and I hope to pass it down to my kids and make sure they know how much their mom loves this place. It starts with the soft challah, then the crispy schnitzel, topped with fried eggplant and matbucha (the cherry on top). 

Now that you’re well fed and have gathered all of your souvenirs from the Shuk, you are off to Ben Yehuda street, where you may walk into someone having a live singing performance, but hey, we are in Jerusalem, that’s what we do here. Maybe you want a smoothie, go jewelry shopping for a nice hamsa, and shop for more clothes, even though you packed all of Europe. But because you didn’t know Jerusalem gets chilly at night, you absolutely need a sweater. 

Now that you have all the appropriate clothing, a refreshing smoothie, and full stomach, you’re off to an obligatory visit to the Western Wall. From Machane Yehuda or Ben Yehuda you can take the Light Rail to City Center , and start walking into the Old City to explore the wonders of the Western Wall. 

If you’re up to it and feeling extra spiritual, you can bring some post-its and a pen to write down everything you’re praying for to stick in the crevices on the Wall. 

Also, pro-tip, expect dancing if you’re going on Shabbat, as the seminary girls and yeshiva boys will not allow you to sit around dozing off into space.

Now that we’ve reached the end of my casual itinerary, it’s your turn to create your own, and complete the rest of your journey.