Passion for tourism in the frontier land of north Israel

Ten months ago 42 years old Lioz Hamo from moshav Amnun by the Sea of Galilee had a look at the “Villa Tehilla”estate, built in 1882 as a farm and later on transformed into a travelers’ inn in Rosh Pina. A Galilean famous guest house. The owner Tehilla Yisraeli, who was among the first to rent out rooms in the picturesque town, passed away 3 years ago. This establishment is renowned for not being exactly a boutique hotel or a resort. 20 years ago Lonely Planet  called it “Israel’s most unique accommodation option”. The estate was for rent and Lioz and his wife Adva, tourism lovers who mainly operate a camping compound and rent out all-terrain vehicles (ATV), decided to meet the challenge. In the middle of a war with Hezbollah they signed the contract and the legendary farm guest house became theirs. Ever since guests hardly arrived and in September a rocket crashed in the hotel’s backyard with fragments penetrating into the dining room and one of the guest’s bathrooms. Hosting mainly evacuees was the only option for the Hamo couple. “Who is making such a business move in the middle of a war? I ask Adva. “Tourism is the only thing we know and Lioz always had good instincts in this arena. The 14 rooms “Villa Tehilla” was a dream come true for us”, she says. Lioz makes me a great espresso, dressed in military uniform, just  arriving from an assignment on the Syrian border. A short vacation during months of reserve service. The ceasefire agreement on the border with Lebanon appears to be promising and a turning point for the two. The place was fully booked on a midweek Wednesday. Adva was constantly on the phone smiling and registering new bookings.

Thirty years ago Tehilla Yisraeli (Tehilla means fame in Hebrew) and her husband Amichai bought this 19th-century farm and converted the former stables and dairy into a charming guesthouse. Over The decades it became world-famous and visitors to northern Israel headed to old Rosh Pina to experience “Villa Tehilla”. The Hemo couple continue to carry the torch. We were impressed how the farm’s original central courtyard is still preserved with the original stone walls and the additional decorating antiques. This is certainly a walk through a time tunnel to days long gone of jewish enthusiast pioneering.

“We have 14 charming and beautiful rooms; each room has its own beauty and character”, says Adva Hemo. “There is a heated pool, jacuzzi and sauna. A Galilean breakfast is an experience, with a cook who prepares for guests the food with her own hands”. Certainly a unique stay.

In picturesque Rosh Pina one feels the breathtaking rural landscapes of the Hermon mountain and sense as transported to an era long ago. First settled in the 1870s its old town consists of just a few short cobblestone streets visitors can relive village life as it was, over a century ago, enjoying cultural and artistic ambiance popping into a dozen galleries where artists – some well known – sell jewelery, ceramics, sculpture and paintings. Art certainly occupies a prominent place and sets the tone in this Princess of the Galilee

The entrance to “Villa Tehilla” housed on an 1882 estate built as a farm and travelers’ inn in Rosh Pina (Photo by Motti Verses)

“Villa Tehilla” inner courtyard. Stables were transformed into guest rooms (Photo by Motti Verses)

“Villa Tehilla” typical room at this Galilean famous guest house (Photo by Motti Verses)

The writer with General Manager Adva Hamo: “Tourism is the only thing we know” (photo by Itzhak Rabihiya)

Rosh Pina – breathtaking rural landscapes (Photo by Motti Verses)

First settled in the 1870s – an old town house in
Rosh Pina (Photo by Motti Verses)

The close by Agamon Hula Lake, famous for bird watching, was still closed when I knocked on its doors. It was just opened a few days ago. “During the war, we had about 8 workers left to maintain the place, sometimes under fire”, says Inbar Shlomit Rubin, Field Manager at the JNF Hula Lake. “Even after the reopening not all of the observatories are available for visitors yet, for safety reasons. Our biggest challenge is manpower. Some of our employees are still being evacuated, some will not return and others found a new route during the war. Nature and the birds will also need time to get used to visitors again, and we urge everyone to travel with tolerance”, she says.

We drive east and climb the Golan Heights narrow road, aiming for the family owned Odem Mountain Winery. Located in a large forest in the northern part of the Golan, this renowned winery produces 200,000 bottles annually. “While the production continued as usual I was drafted to the army, counting 200 reserve days ever since October 7th”, says General Manager Alon Arbel. “Our supply chain continued normally to central Israel and we even invested significant funds in expanding our onsite visiting center by building a new wine room”, he says. ‘I must say this new structure is impressive, not even to be seen in traditional famous wine roots in Europe’, I compliment Arbel and owner Michael Alfasi. Since the agreement in the north, they point out that traffic to visit the winery has resumed significantly.

Not far away, 1070 meters above sea level, we checked-in at the Boutique Elrom hotel that was out of business during the war and had just opened. This 44 rooms family oriented hotel at the kibbutz entrance looks totally new and inviting. 37 years old General Manager Shimon Michael dressed in semi army color clothing was and still is busy running Elrom’s first response defense squad. On my way to meet him in the hotel’s lounge I witnessed a team member functioning as a housekeeper, arranging a guest room with an M16 assault rifle on his shoulder. “We had to let go of most of our staff during the war and now we are training totally new team members. Indeed a challenge, however the cease fire makes us optimistic as new bookings are counted daily. Weekends are already busy and Passover is fully booked”, he says.

A newly appointed receptionist sends us to enjoy dinner at a posh restaurant, just opened in Birkat Ram, a natural water source reservoir under Mount Hermon. Waze is navigating us through the darkness, however due to army intentional disruptions we are soon lost on a dirt road by the Syrian border. Suddenly a suspicious pick up truck comes towards us. “Can you help us with directions to Tushar restaurant by the lake?”, I anxiously but desperately asked the two youngsters inside. “Sure, follow us. We live close by”, was the answer. We thanked the friendly Druze and within minutes we were in a mirage called Tushar. For a moment we thought we were in a contemporary designed Tel Aviv posh restaurant. 28 years old Druze Chef Saleh Gotany from Buq’ata, who worked in Ran Shmueli’s Claro’s famous Sarona Tel Aviv restaurant, welcomed us with a smile. His tasting Syrian style gastronomy menu was a dream. The steak he prepared for us will be long remembered. “Who opens an upmarket restaurant in such a place during a war?” I kept asking. “It is certainly a business gamble, however we wanted to cheer the citizens of nearby Majdal Shams town that lost 12 children due a rocket attack by Hezbollah. My partners and I invested half a million Shekels in this new restaurant. We wanted to make a mark on Druze gastronomy in the Golan and although only locals currently dine here, we are certainly optimistic to be the culinary highlight in the northern Golan”, says Gotany.

Agamon Hula Lake, famous for bird watching (photo by Dana Klein)

General Manager Alon Arbel (left) and owner Michael Alfasi at the new wine room of Odem Mountain Winery (Photo by Motti Verses)

The 44 rooms family oriented Boutique Elrom hotel with General Manager Shimon Michael (Photo by Motti Verses)

Druze Chef Saleh Gotany at Birkat Ram’s new Tushar restaurant by the lake (Photo by Motti Verses)

On the next day at high noon I am walking along the stream of the breathtaking Tel Dan Nature Reserve, not far from Kiryat Shmona city. Next to me is Raya Shourky, Director General of Israel Nature and Parks. Together with her executive team she shows us the damages. The visitor center here is closed as it was hit by a rocket. A temporary wagon takes its place. Not far away, fire consumed green areas in the Banias Nature Reserve. “The year 2024 was the most challenging one in the 60 years of the authority’s existence”, says Shourky. “The most significant extent of damage is in the Northern District, which suffered approximately 223 thousand dunams that were burned. We definitely need government funds to recover. But the good news is that most of the sites are now open for the benefit of the public, so that they can enjoy nature again not far from the border with Lebanon”, she says.

We drive south to central Israel and make a detour, heading to the small christian village of  Jish, also known by its Hebrew name of Gush Halab. The Christmas tree was just lit and the main tiny streets are decorated for the festive holidays. Bachir Sliman, named after the late assassinated  Militia commander and Lebanese president-elect Bachir Gemayel, just opened his popular Hunter House meat restaurant for the first time since the war is in a cease fire mode. “It is so encouraging to welcome old clients after such a long time”, he says with a smile. “It will take at least 6 months for the business to recuperate and the government should assist tourism establishments by lowering the VAT rate for that period”, he suggests. Sliman reveals that regardless of the war difficulties he sent money to his relatives in Lebanon who see him as a person living in a dream country. I couldn’t agree more.

Approximately 223 thousand dunams were burned in Israel’s the Northern District – a Banias Nature Reserve seen (Photo by Motti Verses)

A hole in the the Snir Stream (Hatsbani) nature reserve, caused by a Burkan short-range ballistic missile fired by Hezbollah (Photo by Motti Verses)

The writer with Raya Shourky, Director General of Israel Nature and Parks in Tel Dan Nature Reserve – its visitor center is closed as it was hit by a rocket. A temporary wagon takes its place (Photo by Motti Verses)

Christian Bachir Sliman at his popular Jish Hunter House meat restaurant (Photo by Motti Verses)

One thing is for sure. At the frontier land by Israel’s northern brothers I found only optimism for a better future and confidence in tourism.