A bliss called Relais Chateaux II Falconiere Tuscany

Once we disembarked our cabin at the small railway station in Terontola, a tidy country town in Tuscany, it all came back to me. The manicured fields, rustic farms, cypress-lined driveways, and towns clinging to nearly every hill. This is the landscape seen from the van that picked us up before sunset. After a 15 minute drive through an idyllic landscape of small lanes lined with dry-stone walls, I was there. After 12 years I returned to the Baracchi family farm estate near Cortona. A town with an appeal that lies in its lofty setting, splendid views and medieval mood. It is surely one of the most delightful hill towns in Tuscany and its slow burn was accelerated after the town found fame in ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’, a must read book.

For years the Baracchi’s estate was in my mind as the most desired paradise I could think of. The 12 hectares property dates back to 1650. The Baracchi ancestors acquired it in 1862 and it turned to be their home, with vineyards, forests and olive trees.

It all changed when 1957 born Riccardo Baracchi fell in love at school with the resourceful energetic love of his life, Silvia. The two married and while the husband wanted to preserve tradition the young wife had a dream to open her own restaurant, as she believed to be destined to promote the art of Tuscan gastronomy.

Fast forward in time, ambition prevailed and the estate turned into a luxury hotel with a Michelen star restaurant. While conducting a business meeting 25 years ago in the nearby town of Arezzo the Baracchis noticed a group of people carrying falcons on their arms. With the urge to find a unique name with a link to old times hunting, Riccardo’s love, the name Il Falconiere was selected.

Since my previous visit extensive renovations were taken in the last 4 years. The estate certainly transmits pure luxury. 31 extraordinary modern and Tuscan style designed rooms and villas in different sizes from 35 – 60 meters are offered. The rooms are scattered throughout the property, either by the two outdoor pools, or the endless green groves. Guests can relax by the pools with sun beds and deck chairs, or enjoy the luxurious Spa with the heated indoor pool jacuzzi, partly indoors and partly outside in front of the magical view. Turkish baths, saunas and beauty treatments are all available.

Cortona, splendid views and medieval mood(photo by Motti Verses)

Entering Il Falconiere to a Relais & Châteaux in Cortona – a true bliss (photo by Motti Verses)

With owner and celebrity chef Silvia Baracchi: definitely a leader of Tuscan gastronomy (photo by Motti Verses)

A link to old times hunting, Riccardo’s love – a falcon artwork is dominating the entrance area (photo by Motti Verses)

Relaxing corners are to be found all over the estate (photo by Motti Verses)

The Lounge Bar complex is the heart of the hotel (photo by Motti Verses)

A Tuscan modern style guestroom in the estates (photo by Motti Verses)

The swimming pool and the Tuscan scenery as seen from my guest room window (photo by Motti Verses)

The luxurious Spa with the heated pool jacuzzi, partly indoors and partly outside (photo by Motti Verses)

But what certainly tops everything here is the gastronomy. If you spend two nights in this bliss property you can combine unique experiences, not to be found elsewhere. “My passion goes for good food, good wine and hospitality. I love to share it with my customers here. I want them to feel at home, as we all believe in Tuscany that is how to treat guests”, says Silvia Baracchi.

Participating in her daily Italian cooking class in a villa designated just for this purpose is a lifetime experience. The finests products are used and the 4 hours adventure attracts even the most doubtful person. He becomes a potential cook, eager to prepare at home the Tuscan food, exactly like the enthusiastic chef Baracchi is teaching. Sitting together after a long evening on your feet to taste the 3 course dinner you just created, under her supervision, is an exquisite experience.

Another evening should be dedicated to a dinner in Il Falconiere Michelin star restaurant. “We offer both lunch and evening meals and a significant number of guests come from the outside as well”, she says. The dinner in a restaurant made of glass walls and roof, combined with unique hanging chandeliers is impressive. A posh solarium. Traditionally dressed waiters provide elegance. ‘Baracchi Wines’ , made in the estate, are offered generously during dinner. This winery produces 130,000 bottles per year of top quality seven types of red wine and three types of white wine. Dinner itself made me speechless. The Carabaccia, the local version of onion soup with pecorino cheese, croutons and sliced toasted almonds was divine. The Chianina Beef Tartare in crispy wafers, carrot purée and wine mayo was a gastronomical poem. The Duck in honey, chili in black cabbage and spring onions was the best ever. The Tuscan dessert of ricotta cheese, chocolate and alchermes liqueur concluded an evening to cherish. For my money Baracchi is definitely one of the leading celebrity chefs in Tuscany.

From the early days, with her business hunches, energetic Silvia Baracchi knew she needed world fame recognition. Transforming Il Falconiere to a Relais & Châteaux product was her prime goal. This brand is an association that individually owns and operates luxury hotels and restaurants with almost 600 members in 64 countries. Established in France 70 years ago Relais & Châteaux is mainly known for a collection of family owned and individual properties and its strict admission standards. Most of them are historic landmarks such as castles, manor houses in idyllic settings and offering exquisite haute cuisine. The Relais & Châteaux emblem provided the Baracchi couple the required recognition.

The Michelin star restaurant solarium (photo by Motti Verses)

The Baracchi winery in the estate produces 130,000 bottles per year (photo by Motti Verses)

The gastronomy during dinner in the Michelin star restaurant is exquisite (photo by Motti Verses)

Chef Baracchi conducts daily Italian cooking classes, a lifetime experience (photo by Motti Verses)

Sunset on Tuscany, as seen from the estate (photo by Motti Verses)

Medieval games in UNESCO World Heritage listed San Gimignano with its famous unmistakable towers (photo by Motti Verses)

Siena Cathedral, is one of the most important and magnificent Romanesque – Gothic churches in Italy (photo by Motti Verses)

Florence, where one loses himself in the art, history and traditions (photo by Motti Verses)

The major Tuscany attractions are within reachable daily trips. UNESCO World Heritage listed San Gimignano with its famous unmistakable towers, the historical center of Siena with its jaw-dropping gigantic Piazza del Campo, the spectacular  Monteriggioni– a medieval stronghold and even stunning Florence, where one loses himself in the art, history and traditions

A winter long vacation is expected at Relais & Chateaux II Falconiere and the estate will reopen in mid March. Enjoying a glass of Baracchi Smeriglio Sangiovese in the estate Bar, after a gastrostomy feast and relaxed Silvia wants to talk about a memorable past Saturday visit in Israel. It was 2012  in Jerusalem, during a gastronomy promotion she conducted in Tel Aviv at the Hilton. Taking advantage of her day off I showed her the old city and made sure she would not miss a visit to The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which some consider the holiest site in Christianity. “It was a visit I will cherish all my life, especially as an Italian”, she says to me. But what striked me the most was her last sentence before my departure to Rome. “Next time I return to Jerusalem, let’s go again to tiny Lina by the church, the best Hummus there is”. What an unexpected wish of a Michelin star restaurant celebrity chef with a great memory on an autumn evening in Tuscany.