Kedma – 4 years of Nabataeans revival

The Nabataeans, an enigmatic ancient tribe mentioned numerous times in the bible in various forms, controlled trade routes along most of the middle east Incense Road. This fascinating way stretched from southern Arabia through their capital Petra to the land of Israel, via the Negev desert.

This mysterious tribe we know so little of fascinated David Ben Gurion, the founder of Israel who saw the future of the country in the Negev. He admired their agricultural talent and referred to them as an example of a possible  realization of his vision. The Nabataeans  imported resin from perfume trees. To produce olive oil, they even grew olive trees in the desert. Not many know that when Ben-Gurion was the chairman of the board of the Jewish Agency during World War II, he even proposed to place the capital of the future Jewish state in Mamshit, one of the main towns of the Nabateans in the Negev.

When he was 67 years old Ben Gurion made the Sde Boker kibbutz in the Negev his home till his last day. Visitors to this dry region today do not miss Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park next to the kibbutz, or his Desert Home, now a museum. A testimony to the lifestyle in a community founded in the country early days.

The Nabateans according to an anonymous painter, on sail in a gift shop in Petra Jordan (photo: Motti Verses)

Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park in Sde Boker hosts ibexes enjoying the greenery (photo: Motti Verses)

Ben-Gurion kibbutz Desert Home is a museum, a testimony to the lifestyle in a community founded in 1952 (photo: Motti Verses)

Ben-Gurion kibbutz Desert Home bedroom (photo: Motti Verses)

Until 2020 Sde Boker was just a stop over for visitors and tourists until Isrotel, one of Israel’s leading hotel brands, inaugurated in the middle of the Covid pandemic – right next to this famous desert home, its latest hotel – Kedma. Nowadays, when Israel is preoccupied with another crisis, ‘Operation Swords of Iron’ in Gaza, the hotel quietly marks its 4th anniversary. I traveled with my beloved wide family to the Negev to get acquainted with this fascinating property that shines like an imaginary beacon to the wealth of the ancient Nabateans.

”We at Isrotel believe strongly in the desert and we have a lot of properties in the deserts of Israel”, says Lior Raviv, Chief Executive Officer of Isrotel. “We started at ‘Pundak Ramon’ , which was our first hotel, currently under renovations, and then the famous ‘Bereshit’ which is a super unique property. Our newest hotel in the desert is ‘Kedma’, a lodge size hotel and a magnificent property. It is built on one floor, providing a super desert experience which has not been experienced in Israel in the past. This is the reason why Kedma is such a popular hotel”, he says.

A 2 hours drive south from central Israel in the last week of August, confronting busy traffic, was surreal. It was even a challenge to find a parking spot in the desert, next to the Kedma hotel. A surprising reality in days of war and extreme desert hit. Assuming travelers and families will choose a waterfront location in summer proved wrong.

The moment we stepped into the busy Kedma lobby for our group check in, I found myself completely hypnotized by the interior design, ignoring the crowded reception area by families, children and babies.

Kedma is a Khan style resort, offering 163 rooms and suites built around an expansive open-air courtyard with a serene pool. It is surrounded by luscious fruit trees, most of them mentioned in the bible, together with plants, creating an environment of desert oasis. The main structure of the Lobby and restaurants is a pure piece of exceptional desert design. A tribute to the ancient Nabateans and the antique Incense Road. Impatiently I rushed to hear the explanations of the award winning interior designer, Ruth Arad. “The design was based on a desert concept, inspired by the old world route used for transporting spices and fragrances”, she says. “The main lobby is long and narrow, symbolizing the endless wandering in the desert. Simple materials such as stone, wood, plaster, and metal, to be found in such surroundings were used”, she says.

With Lior Raviv, Chief Executive Officer Isrotel(right):”We believe strongly in the desert” (photo: Motti Verses)

A perfect tranquil awaits under trees of the bible (photo: Motti Verses)

A wide open-air courtyard with a serene pool dominate the hotel (photo: Motti Verses)

163 rooms highlight a Nabateans vibe atmosphere (photo: Motti Verses)

The long narrow Kedma lobby, symbolizes wandering along the endless Perfume historical desert trade route (photo: Motti Verses)

The Lounge – a tent-like structure using ropes, fostering intimacy (photo: Motti Verses)

The dining room – a design deeply rooted in the connection to the desert, with a Sukkah in the center (photo: Motti Verses)

The posh original Hamam is the most unique leisure facility in the hotel (photo: Motti Verses)

Arad’s desert-inspired hospitality design is impressive. The lounge is presented with a tent-like structure using ropes, fostering intimacy and connection. The main dining room reflects a desert Sukka and an atmosphere of minimal illumination while dining in the evenings. I admired the use of the Islamic-influenced windows characterized by the use of grills to replace glass and shutters.(mashrabiyya). Extraordinary. The ceiling in most outlets is lowered and the lighting twinkles like stars. We loved the outdoors ground sitting with cushions and feeling like Nabateans in designated corners with a fireplace in the center, enjoying a typical desert oasis night atmosphere.

Our guest room was comfortable with a similar desert concept and the service by the housekeeping staff was satisfactory. It was a challenge to get used to a room with no daylight or a balcony, but as we spent most of our time outdoors in the resort it was not a major issue.

The Kedma was busy with locals this past August. However the main restaurant provided an impressive array of food items on the buffet that the ancient Nabateanswith would gladly embrace. The service was efficient, regardless of the ques and the noise. I assumed that the full house resort had to do with the relatively safe geographic location, far from the Gaza border or the north of Israel. However, my assumption was wrong. “We have been busy all the time since the opening 4 years ago. Guests just love the Kedma. It is an amazing success”, explains pleasant General  Manager Boaz Zur.

Interior designer Arad concurs and when I challenged her about the absence of Ben Gurion’s spirit at the Kedma, she replies: “The founder of Israel visioned to make the desert bloom. We fulfilled his dream – it is a desired workplace, a popular recreation destination and this green oasis is a Negev dream to his vision of our civilian’s vigor”.