Two Quarters, One Essence – A Walk Through Palestinian Jerusalem (?)

There are four quarters in the Old City of Jerusalem, the Jewish, the Armenian, the Christian, and the Muslim Quarter. By default one could think that these four quarters each have their own character, and that it would be clear when passing from one to another. And while this is true, when it comes to the Jewish and the Armenian Quarter, passing from the Christian to the Muslim Quarter isn’t so clear.

New Gate
The main gate leading straight into the Christian Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Both quarters offer outdoor serving, having tourists enjoying the local coffee and cakes. Both places attempt to be open to tourists, without making any statements or demands.

A café with guests in the entry street leading to New Gate. Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

The corner of Les Freres Street, street of brothers, in the Christian Quarter of the Old City in Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Come early enough and it will be possible to see the closed shops before opening hours, allowing the observant passer-by to pay attention to the smaller and more interesting details of the quarters.

Closed shops on Les Freres Street in the Christian Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Moving nearer to the Muslim Quarter via the Sant Francis Street in the Christian Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

A statue of Virgin Mary observing the passers-by on Sant Francis Street in the Christian Quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

The emblem of the Secular Franciscan Order above the gate to the Christian Quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

But as the time goes shops open, and both tourists and locals grow in numbers.

Slowly walking from the Christian Quarter to the Muslims Quarter, the change being made visible by a minaret in the distance.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

A Greek flag is seen in the shopping street in the Christian Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Local shops in the streets of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Soon the small visible signs of the passing from the Christian to the Muslim Quarter becomes visible, the only real way to know that we went from one quarter to another.

The minaret of Al-Khanqah al-Salahiyya Mosque, a mosque built in the 12th century with a 15 meters high minaret. The mosque was built for Salah al-Din, though not only for him personally.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Entering the Muslim Quarter from the Christian Quarter, symbolized by a Christian cross and a Muslim half-moon.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Now we can enjoy the walk down Al-Zytoun El-Shafa street, taking in the sights and wonders of the small and narrow street, typical for the Muslim and Christian Quarters of the Old City.

Our walk has taken us in to the Al-Zytoun El-Shafa street in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem,
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

A Palestinian woman is investigating the offerings of one of the shops.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Finally we reach the end of the street, and we access Al-Wad street, which leads us into the market in front of the Damascus Gate.

The beginning of the end of our walk, where Al-Zytoun El-Shafa meets Al-Wad.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

The Damascus Gate appears in the background of the busy Al-Wad Street.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

The Damascus Gate is a busy point of commerce in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

Going through the Damascus Gate we exit this amazing place, the Old City of Jerusalem. Here history is created every day, and it’s a history we all can become part of.

Though we have left the Old City of Jerusalem, the Damascus Gate still witnesses a lot of activity outside the wall.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

The Damascus Gate is an important entry point to the Old City, not only for the local Muslims living there, but also for Christians, Jews, and of course tourists from all over the world.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

An old Palestinian man greets a boy selling his products at the entrance to the Damascus Gate of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov

These two quarters are both different and the same, being clearly connected and never separated. There definitely are signs, Christian symbols and icons in the Christian Quarter, as well as the tourist shops catering to Christian tourists, and the lack of the same in the Muslim Quarter, and the latter feeling slightly more busy depending on where one finds oneself. But it’s never clear. There are mosques in the Christian Quarter and churches in the Muslim Quarter. And it is never clear who is Christian and who is Muslim.

It is as if they are Palestinian more than anything else. It is as if the two quarters are of the same essence.

The End
Or is it the beginning? As we move away from the Damascus Gate we can see a continuous stream of people entering the Old City of Jerusalem through the gate. Should we turn around and follow them back into the heart of Jerusalem?
Credit: Shmuel Aryeh Koltov