A refined Jewel Box hospitality in Dresden

15 years ago I accompanied a dear German friend to a festive wedding in Dresden. It was my first visit to the city and it was rather short. The ceremony was held at The Frauenkirche, Cathedral of Our Lady, right in the center of the old town. The festive event was glamorous, emotional and memorable, but the visit in Dresen was rather short. I made a promise to myself to return as quickly as possible, but it took longer than I anticipated. A few days ago I finally returned for a longer thorough press tour which I intentionally started in the very same venue.

The Frauenkirche was built in the 18th century and became a world famed symbol to Dresden. During the Second World War allied bombing raids almost completely destroyed the city in February 1945. These raids became a symbol of the “terror bombing” campaign against Nazi Germany which in retrospect was one of the most controversial Allied actions of the war. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill had called for increased air raids against the population centers in order to swamp German authorities and services, particularly transportation, with hordes of refugees. This bombing policy reminds many today of the current war in Gaza –  criticizing Israel and forgetting the Dresden history. The burnt-out cathedral collapsed during those bombings. For 48 years, the mountain of rubble was a memorial against war and destruction. After 1982, it became a symbol of the East German peace movement and non-violent protest. The baroque cupola structure was rebuilt between 1993 and 2005, re-utilising as much as possible of the original building materials. The rebuilt Frauenkirche became a symbol of peace and reconciliation and is a must visit. Nowadays street artists and performers are seen in the gigantic plaza surrounding the cathedral like every tourist destination in Europe. A holy  structure that symbolizes the history of this breathtaking city. For my money, it is one of the most underrated cities in Europe.

The rebuilt Frauenkirche, originally from the 18th century is a world famed symbol to Dresden (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

Dresden’s reputed Brühl Terrace as seen from the Elbe river (photo courtesy: DML-BY)

Zwinger,a remarkable synthesis of architecture, sculpture and painting (photos courtesy: Motti Verses)

Zwinger,another architecture remarkable look (photos courtesy: Motti Verses)

Within a walking distance one can not miss the famous Brühl Terrace. This reputed promenade stretches along the Elbe between the Augustus Carola Bridges over a length of about 500 meters. Strolling along this gem is a magical hour. It was built originally in the 16th century as part of Dresden’s city fortifications. However the local Count Brühl redesigned it in the 18th century and used the property as his residence, a park and his library. As a result of the development, the terrace lost its military significance and developed into a popular excursion destination and today it attracts millions annually.

Dresden is commonly referred to as the “Jewel Box” because of its baroque and rococo old town center. This town coherently fuses endless historical monuments, architecture and museums. It’s the capital of Saxony, the tenth largest of Germany’s sixteen states. The city’s impressive landmarks are close to each other, making the visit here easy and even relaxing.

The nearby famous Zwinger, built in the 19th century, is a remarkable synthesis of architecture, sculpture and painting. It looks breathtaking as ever, regardless of the massive renovations taking place mainly in the inner courtyard. Such a pity. Although the place looks today like a construction site, this monumental fortress is certainly worth a thorough visit. Zwinger served as an orangery and the setting for magnificent festivities and weddings of kings and queens in rich Saxony. The name goes back to the name used in the Middle Ages for a fortress section between the outer and inner city walls. Today it is one of the most important buildings of the Baroque period and a reason to visit Dresden at all costs.

Shoulder to shoulder to this architectural jewel stands the Semper. It is the Saxon State Opera and the concert hall of the State Orchestra and the ballet. For my money this is one of the most impressive 19th century opera houses you will see, both outside and inside. It was originally built by the architect Gottfried Semper in 1841 and after a devastating fire almost 30 years after the inauguration, the opera house was rebuilt within 10 long years. Join the English tour for a perfect experience.

Dresden offers endless additional sites to visit and the most original and impressive is the Fürstenzug, the Procession of Princes. An outdoor jaw dropping large mural of a mounted procession of the rulers of Saxony. Originally a 19th century painting, it was replaced 120 years ago by 23,000 Meissen porcelain tiles. With a length of 102 meters it is known as the largest porcelain artwork in the world which will leave you speechless. Rest assured you will not see something similar elsewhere.

Semper, the Saxon State Opera and the concert hall of the State Orchestra (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

Semper, the Saxon State Opera, inside look (photos courtesy: Motti Verses)

Dresden’s Procession of Princes (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

Renaissance wonders on the frescoes on the Altan in the Dresden Saxon royal palace and its magnificent view (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

Most of the visitors we encountered were Germans, like my previous visit. Surprisingly this has not changed much this early fall. However the global hotel brands are aware of Dresden as a tourism potential and are making efforts to leave their mark. I was especially curious to understand better how come even the Thai-based Minor Hotels group is present in this jewel box city. This brand apparently wants to play a significant role in the hospitality major league and aims to expand its portfolio by a third by 2027. 6 years ago the brand made a momentous move in Europe and Latin America. It acquired the Spanish NH Hotel Group and added approximately 380 hotels to its portfolio.

What exactly is the NH Collection brand? I ask Alexander Dürr, Senior Director of Operations, Northern Europe, Minor Hotels Europe & Americas.

“10 years ago, we at NH Collection began by creating a promise: a stay driven by extraordinary emotions. Today, with nearly 100 properties in 21 countries worldwide, we’ve already created millions of unique hospitality moments,” he says. “By really connecting with our destinations, the locals and culture, NH Collection has welcomed over 35 million guest stays already. Our hotels are characterized either by the charm of classic architecture or avant-garde modern design, such as our 240-room NH Collection Dresden Altmarkt.”

We made our home away from home in the old town, in this inviting hotel and appreciated outgoing General Manager Holger Glasemann’s room allocation for us. It was a pampering suite with a breathtaking view of Dresden old market. The Market Square has played a vital part of Dresden since the 13th century, hosting markets, games, and festivals throughout its history and a must visit as well.

Dürr reveals that “the Dresden Altmarkt hotel attracts tourists, next to being from Germany, mostly from Austria, Switzerland, Poland, the the Bar in the evening was a great outlet to enjoy at the end of the day, including a small dinner menuNetherlands and the USA.” I found it a cool hotel that tourists from Israel will definitely enjoy.

We loved the location within walking distance to all the historical sites. Breakfast was pleasant and the Bar in the evening was a great outlet to enjoy at the end of the day, including a small dinner menu to cherish. Exactly what is needed.

The monument to composer Ernst Julius Otto near Holy Cross Church Kreuzkirche and the NH Collection Dresden Altmarkt in Dresden (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

The Bar, a great outlet including a small dinner menu (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

The Market Square has played a vital part of Dresden since the 13th century (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

The Market Square seen from the hotel suite (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

With outgoing General Manager Holger Glasemann at the NH Collection Dresden Altmarkt (photo courtesy: Motti Verses)

On another evening I couldn’t resist tasting the gastronomy of famed Chef Andreas Graeser in the ‘Das Palais’ posh restaurant across from Zwinger. The restaurant is located in the just renovated luxurious Taschenbergpalais Kempinski hotel. Graeser’s Saxon potato soup with fried sausage slices was a jewel. The orecchiette with diced salmon and lime sauce was divine. The homemade cottage cheese dumplings with apple ragout and mint for dessert is highly recommended. My sincere recommendation for an evening out in Dresden.

Chef Andreas Graeser gastronomy at the ‘Das Palais’ posh restaurant across from Zwinger is highly recommended (photo courtesy: Motti Verses and Taschenbergpalais Kempinski hotel)

Dresden is reachable from both Prague and Berlin. Approximately 2 hours by train and you will find yourself in this undervalued must that Isralies tend to skip. Some will take a day tour from one of these cities. Trust me. It is not enough. Allow yourselves a list of two full days and the visit will stay with you endlessly.