Silk Road Uzbekistan: Magical Bukhara

It’s high noon and we are about to depart breathtaking Samarkand, waiting for the next Sharq to arrive. It is the popular and comfortable tourist-class train in Uzbekistan from the Soviet times. Our destination is the city of Bukhara. A two hours ride. Not as smooth as the Afrosiyob fast train, the Sharq is clean and comfortable.

If you ask a typical Israeli what Bukhara is, the answer will probably be a region, an autonomy, or a state in the former Soviet Union that jews migrated from to Israel. Facts indicate that the Jews from Bukhara were of the oldest Jewish diaspora groups, dating back to the Babylonian exile. This ethnic group lived predominantly in what is today Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan. Only a few left.

Disembarking in its tiny train station and observing the city from the taxi windows – on a surprising dirt road – we learned that today’s Bukhara is a modern city. With 300,000 inhabitants it is one of the most intriguing historical centers in Central Asia. The city is situated on the Silk Route and is more than 2,000 years old. What we experienced here is beyond imagination. We arrived at the most complete example of a medieval city of the continent, with an urban fabric that has remained largely intact. Discovering the endless sites here is a joy to every traveler.

With two-humped Mongolian camels in sight, we are in the impressive Ark of Bukhara fortress that was in use until 100 years ago. It was inhabited by the various royal courts that held sway over the region. An ancient symbol of state power. From the very beginning of time, this immense fortress has stood at the heart of Bukhara, serving as protection and stronghold for the city’s rulers. Exploring it in a sand storm didn’t affect the impressive scenery of the historical center from a designated observation point.

After Samarkand, Bukhara is perhaps Uzbekistan’s most famous city. The famous restored minaret, mosque and madrasa of the Kalyan complex stand out. Each of the buildings displays its beauty through various styles of ornate mosaics, colorful tile work, or decorative bands. A must visit.

For my money the endless yet unrestored structures with the Mulberry Silk trees all over impressed with originality. Bukhara is not perfectly revived. Its authenticity is embracing. Restoration began in the late 1960’s under the USSR, and has been continued by Uzbekistan after the independence. We strolled in the upgraded mosques, madrasas, mausoleums, and other monumental structures that are now craft centers, studios, and galleries.

The architecture unparalleled surprises here are priceless.The Bolo Hauz, a mosque by a calming pond that faces an elegant pillared facade is impressive. Not far, crossing the park, we faced the  magnificent tomb of Ismael Samani, a famous Persian Amir. It is the oldest, best preserved and most breathtakingly original building in Bukhara. For architects it is one of the highlights of a visit to Uzbekistan.

The Lyabi Hauz ensemble of structures is surrounded by a pond that was one of the hundreds of pools throughout the city in the Middle Ages. Today it is the social beating heart of the Bukhara, highlighted by the Nasreddin statue, a half-mythical figure who crops up in local legends. Locals are seen in this scenic plaza drinking tea, playing board games and socializing day and night. Here one can observe the secularism of Uzbekistan. Religious Islam expressions are not noticed and beer and wine are consumed freely in every corner. This country is moderate and hospitable and we felt completely safe.

The old town offers small attractive boutique hotels but we made our home at the charming recently opened Wyndham Bukhara, a 15 minutes walk away from the old town. Global brands are hard to find in this city. This hotel with its modern relaxed atmosphere, contemporary design and inviting homey spacious public areas was exactly what we looked for after a long walking day, exploring the wonders of this magical thousand years old city. The Wyndham is unique as it is the first American global branded hotel in Bukhara. It is part of the New Jersey based Wyndham Hotels & Resorts brand, known as the largest hotel franchisor in the world, with 9,100 locations. Almost 30 years ago, locally owned, the hotel was opened under the name Bukhara Palace. A decade ago it ceased to function due to financial difficulties. The post Covid trend in the hospitality industry points to hotel private owners understanding that global brands assist to overcome uncertainty in times of crisis. Furthermore, the property’s value climbs substantially while managed by a reputed hotel chain. This hotel experienced the same phenomenon. After extensive renovations it was reopened 2 and a half years ago with 212 rooms, under the Wyndham umbrella.

‘Why should a guest arriving in Bukhara skip a stay in a boutique hotel in the historical center and stay with you a few blocks away?’ I asked Oybek Shagazatov, the pleasant hospitable General Manager. “While boutique hotels offer charm, Wyndham provides consistency, high service standards, and amenities that many smaller properties do not. 24 hours reception service, rich buffet breakfast, business centers, fitness facilities, and our loyalty rewards. Guests who value international brand trust, modern facilities, and points accumulation tend to choose us over smaller competitors. Since the rebranding, we’ve seen a significant uptick in bookings from Wyndham Rewards members, which now account for 35% of our total stays,” says Shagazatov.

Our comfort in the well-furnished and spotless room with a balcony overlooking town was intact in this Wyndham. After a long day, there’s nothing better than floating in the hotel’s swimming pool, letting go of all the effort . Pure bliss

It is sunset and we are ready for our evening entertainment in a magical Madrasa by the Lyabi Hauz. The Uzbek dance under the sky performance was a delight. What a vivid personification of the beauty of the local culture. A complex, demonstrative of hand movements and rich facial expressions, combined with traditional-modern clothing. It was an experience.

The sun is down and we are in the magical golden hour by the iconic Kalyan minaret and the renowned mosque entrance. The orange colored illumination scenery leaves us tongue-tied. We sat for an hour relaxed, enjoying this magical beauty, contemplating the bygone eras.

The next morning after check-out General Manager Shagazatov assisted us to mount the taxi to the town’s tiny airport with a smile: “2% of our guests are from Israel”, he reminds me. “We would definitely welcome more Israeli guests and we are actively exploring ways to promote our hotel to travelers from your country”, he says.

Magical and mystical Bukhara in Uzbekistan is certainly a unique and intriguing destination to visit.