Rethymno: A Seashell Embrace by the Sea

Inside Greek Hospitality: Part 4

There is something wonderfully authentic about Rethymno in the Greek island of Crete. Perhaps it is the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, the elegant Venetian balconies overlooking centuries-old buildings, or the picturesque harbour where fishing boats and waterfront tavernas create an irresistible Mediterranean atmosphere.

Or perhaps it is the feeling that, despite the growing popularity of Crete, this charming city on the island’s northern coast has managed to preserve something increasingly rare in Mediterranean tourism: its genuine local character.

Rethymno has long lived in the shadow of Crete’s better-known destinations. While Elounda became synonymous with luxury resorts among Israeli travellers, and Chania attracted visitors with its iconic light house and romantic Venetian harbour, Rethymno was often regarded as the island’s less glamorous sibling.

Yet that perception is gradually changing.

Interestingly, few Israeli travellers realise that the journey from Heraklion International Airport to Rethymno takes approximately the same time as the drive to Elounda. Unlike Heraklion and Chania, Rethymno has no commercial airport, nor does it have a major cruise port bringing thousands of passengers into the city.

What it does offer is something different: a fascinating combination of history, beautiful beaches, contemporary hospitality and the welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Cretan town.

The city’s remarkable history is visible almost everywhere. Rising majestically above the Old Town, the imposing Fortezza Fortress is one of Crete’s most impressive landmarks. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century to protect the city from invaders, its massive stone walls, historic ruins and sweeping views of the Cretan Sea offer a fascinating journey through centuries of Mediterranean history.

Below the fortress, the enchanting Old Venetian Harbour, with its colourful waterfront buildings, traditional tavernas and historic lighthouse, remains one of the city’s most captivating attractions. Beyond the harbour, the Old Town unfolds as a labyrinth of atmospheric streets, small boutiques, historic buildings and hidden courtyards. At its heart stands the 17th-century Rimondi Fountain, while the impressive Neratze Mosque, with its distinctive minaret, recalls the period of Ottoman rule. Today, the former mosque serves as a music conservatory.

Yet Rethymno is not simply a beautiful historical destination. Its evolving hospitality scene is attracting a new generation of travellers seeking both cultural experiences and sophisticated beachfront accommodation.

One of the most interesting examples is the Nautilux Rethymno, a striking five-star beachfront resort that opened four years ago. I was curious to learn first hand about this unique property and its 118 rooms and suites. Apparently it represents a contemporary approach to luxury hospitality, combining the atmosphere of a seaside resort with the convenience of an urban location. Our two floors room opened onto beautiful views of the blue Cretan Sea, with a long sandy beach stretching along the coastline.

But what immediately distinguishes the Nautilux from conventional beachfront hotels is its extraordinary architecture. Rather than designing another rectangular hotel building, the architects created a flowing structure inspired by the graceful spiral of a nautilus seashell, the marine creature that also gave the property its name.

The inspiration, however, goes beyond the natural geometry of a seashell. According to the architectural concept, by ARENV Vardakis & Partners, the building was intended to express the embrace of traditional Cretan hospitality. Its curved form symbolically welcomes and surrounds guests, creating a sense of intimacy and protection while remaining open to the sea and the surrounding landscape. The result is an unusual architectural composition of sweeping curves, carefully arranged guest rooms, flowing corridors and interconnected outdoor spaces.

Water plays a central role in the design, linking the swimming pools and inner courtyard to the beach beyond. I was intrigued by the contrasts between contemporary materials such as glass, concrete, stone and metal, and warmer interior elements including wood, fabrics and carefully selected textures. Indeed a unique structure.

Michalis Minadakis is one of Crete’s experienced and respected hospitality executives. A veteran Greek hotelier with decades of past experience in luxury hospitality and senior management positions at Grecotel and Elounda resorts. He is currently the Nautilux Boss and during our conversation, he explains why he believes the resort occupies a particularly attractive position in the island’s competitive hotel market.

“Our hotel has direct access to the beach without any road in front,” he says. “It is a resort in the city.” That distinction is particularly important. Unlike many beachfront hotels separated from the sea by a coastal road, the Nautilux allows guests to move directly from the property onto the sandy beach.

At the same time, Rethymno’s historic centre is within easy reach. “You have access to the middle of the city within about 15 minutes’ walking,” Minadakis explains, enthusiastically praising the hotel’s distinctive architecture. For visitors, the combination is appealing: the pleasures of a luxury beachfront resort without sacrificing the opportunity to explore a lively historical city.

Minadakis believes Rethymno itself is experiencing a period of renewed interest: “Traditionally, German visitors have been among the destination’s strongest international markets, followed by British and French travellers, alongside significant numbers of Scandinavians. Americans are also discovering the city, while Israelis, according to Minadakis, now rank among the hotel’s ten leading source markets.

He describes Rethymno as a destination that has managed to retain its friendly, almost village-like atmosphere, even as tourism continues to develop. That warmth is also reflected in the Nautilux itself. Throughout our stay, the staff were exceptionally friendly and welcoming, contributing to an atmosphere that felt more personal than one might expect from a contemporary luxury hotel.

The Nautilux spa provides another opportunity to slow down, with an indoor pool, wellness facilities and a selection of rejuvenating treatments. We enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere of the spa, but the true highlight of our stay was undoubtedly the gastronomy.

At Nautilux, dining is far more than a routine hotel experience. A professional tasting of Greek wines introduced us to the diversity and character of the country’s winemaking traditions, followed by a memorable culinary experience prepared by Chef Georgios Christoforidis. His colourful, beautifully composed plates resemble works of art.

Fresh Mediterranean ingredients are transformed into imaginative culinary creations, with every colour, texture and flavour carefully arranged to delight both the eyes and the palate. The presentation is striking, but it is the balance between creativity, flavour and local ingredients that makes the experience particularly memorable. It is precisely this attention to detail, combined with the hotel’s architectural individuality and warm hospitality, that gives the Nautilux its distinctive personality.

As evening falls over Rethymno, the city gradually changes character. The illuminated ancient walls of the Fortezza glow in the fading light, the Venetian harbour becomes increasingly atmospheric, and the narrow streets of the Old Town fill with visitors enjoying long dinners in traditional tavernas.

Rethymno may once have been considered Crete’s overlooked sibling, but its combination of Venetian heritage, authentic Cretan character, sandy beaches and a new generation of luxury hotels suggests that its moment has finally arrived.